19th Century Frock Coats Anatomy of a Frock Coat 1860-1890 1. In a coat from 1850 to 1900, the shoulder seams differ from our modern day coats. In contemporary suits and coats, we are used to seeing the shoulder seam right across the top of the shoulder. However, 19th Century coats and jackets were made with a bias cut shoulder seam that runs at an angle down the back. This is true for all coats and jackets in the 19th Century.